Tips & Tricks

Colour Correction and Using Colour Theory

27 Apr

By master colourist, Kristina Russell

As a Sydney based hair colour specialist, I like to approach hair as a blank canvas to create custom colour for my clients. I love the daily challenge of corrective hair colour and offer creative solutions for my varied clientele. I have been working with MUVO in the salon for just over a year & love the range of colours in their easy-to-apply toning range for colour correction; fast filling when taking a client darker, counteracting unwanted tones or enhancing hair colour. 

It’s easy! It’s fast! It’s moisturising and gentle on the hair! What’s not to love?

MUVO’s temporary colour shampoos are suitable for in-salon colour corrections, toning, colour boosting and refining hair colours. Plus, the range is suitable for clients to continue using between salon visits to support and maintain the work done in the salon by extending the longevity of the hair colour.

 

MUVO MAKES YOU MONEY: are you aware of the cost of goods for each colour service you’re offering in your salon?

The value of having MUVO in the salon is priceless! I can achieve a very similar result using a few pumps of Flaming Copper Shampoo on faded golden blonde hair that needs filling or reviving faded copper into bright and spicy copper. 

Utilising a MUVO temporary toning shampoo at the salon basin is considerably cheaper than mixing up a demi-permanent, and whilst the lasting power is different, the end result is very similar.  MUVO is faster, more cost effective and more suited to fast filling, counteracting and boosting colours in the salon. This is so important to consider when pricing for profit and offering clients creative solutions for colour protection and transformative hair colours. 

The MUVO range is at an affordable price point for every client to be able to invest in professional home hair care products, which is another reason I love it because my clients love buying it. Their hair is healthier and holds colour for longer, which is a walking advertisement for my salon business. I want you to have the same success that I have with MUVO, so here I will share some pro-tips with you to incorporate MUVO toning and colour shampoos into your business so that you can learn more and earn more whilst working behind the salon chair.

Before and after of copper hair using just peachy and flaming copper

Two applications of 1/4 MUVO Flaming Copper and 3/4 Just Peachy for 3 mins each to pre-lightened hair. Credit: Neon Blonde

COLOUR CORRECTION

Identify what issue your client needs resolving

Hair colour corrections can be broken down into these 4 different issues. Do you need to ENHANCE or COUNTERACT the existing undertone to achieve your client’s vision? Do you need to GO LIGHTER or GO DARKER?

Which issue does your client need resolved? too dark, too light, too warm, too cool?

 

Use colour theory

Corrective colour can either be a massive job or a ‘quick fix’, but at every stage of the process, I suggest you ground yourself in colour theory. Always refer back to the colour wheel! 

Know the opposites on the colour wheel (or complementary colours) when toning! You also need to know the accompanying undertones when going darker… the rest is up to you to experiment within reasonable calculations.

 

Let’s take a look at how a colour chart informs the way you work with MUVO toning shampoos

Hairdressers as creative mixologists get to play scientist and use the colour wheel regularly to formulate hair colour for our clients. When looking at the colour wheel, colours that are opposite to each other are the colours that will counteract one another. However, if you look at the colours directly next to each other, they can be used to layer to add brightness and depth to the other. For example, red is next to orange. Therefore, red can be used to boost brightness when added to a faded redhead who is too orange.

hair colour chart with levels, complementary and opposite colours

5 things to remember when faced with a colour correction:

  1. If you want to lighten your client’s hair you will need to do a test strand to determine what’s needed
  2. If your target hair colour is cooler or warmer than the existing colour, a temporary toning product is the perfect solution
  3. Trust the colour wheel & refer to it during any times of doubt
  4. MUVO’s toning shampoos can be used to fill the hair with warmth when taking a client darker (highly recommended for sensitive hair types explained in more detail below)
  5. If your client likes their colour but complains of fade, they will benefit from a MUVO toning shampoo or a prescriptive MUVO mocktail (a blend of any of the MUVO toning shampoos) to add some oomph to their tired, faded tresses.

 

My favourite MUVO toning products for my clients are:

muvo prods counteracting and enhancing tones

  • Ultra Blonde Shampoo – counteracts yellow tones on grey, silver, natural blonde and highlighted hair & enhances silver, platinum and ash tones
  • Ultra Rose Shampoo counteracts brassy tones, enhances/adds cool pinkish hues on blonde hair and eliminates green swimmers’ hair  
  • Creamy Blonde Shampoo – counteracts brassiness in blonde and highlighted hair & enhances sparkle, shine and champagne creamy tones for natural-looking tones and brightness
  • Coolest Brunette Shampoo – counteracts & eliminates brassy, copper/orange tones for brunettes. Can be used to add colour to hair when filling to go darker & enhances healthy, natural, cool tones for coloured and natural brunette hair
  • Flaming Copper Shampoo – counteracts murky greenish tones on light to medium brunettes. Flaming Copper can be used to add colour to hair when filling to go darker & enhances warmth in fading red, copper and colour treated hair.
  • Just Peachy Shampoo – counteracts yellow tones on strawberry blonde and highlighted hair, and can boost/enhance fashion colours, such as peach, rose gold and coral hair colours

Step 1 - Assess the hair during your consultation to determine the target colour and make a plan Step 2 - Detox the hair to remove the buildup of products & toning shampoos with MUVO Deep Cleansing Shampoo Step 3 - Apply your chosen MUVO toning shampoo on damp hair for 1-5 minutes for subtle and noticeable colour or apply to towel-dried or dry hair for longer period of time for a stronger deposit of colour Step 4 - Rinse when the desired colour is achieved and follow with a MUVO conditioner or treatment

 

Using MUVO as a filler

If you want your client to go darker by 2 or more levels, you MUST USE A FILLER! This is applicable for every salon professional brand and ensures a predictable and long-lasting colour result. I frequently use Just Peachy and Flaming Copper Shampoo in the salon when transforming a blonde or light caramel client to copper or red. I love using MUVO toning products in this way because they deliver the tone I need without layering the hair with unnecessary applications of colours containing peroxide causing build-up and damage. I highly recommend  MUVO toning shampoos when working with sensitised blonde-haired clients who wish to explore something different or go darker without damaging their hair. If your client’s target colour is a cooler, darker brunette, a mix of Flaming Copper and Coolest Brunette Shampoo is a fabulous filling layer before your final hair dye application.

Step 1 - Assess your client’s hair to determine the target colour and make a plan Step 2 - Detox the hair to remove the build-up of products & toning shampoos with MUVO Deep Cleansing Shampoo Step 3 - Apply your chosen MUVO toning shampoo as a filler on towel-dried hair or blast-dried hair for a stronger deposit than on damp hair at the basin for up to 20 minutes or when you achieve your desired tone Step 4 - Rinse the hair and blast dry to prepare for your next colour service and finish

 

COLOUR CORRECTION EXAMPLES USING MUVO

Violet is the opposite of yellow

If your blonde or grey client’s hair colour is too yellow, you can counteract the unwanted yellow tones by applying violet with the Ultra Blonde range. However, if the hair is too purple or silvery you need to counteract these tones with yellow; add warmth by applying Creamy Blonde Shampoo.

Before and after using Ultra Blonde

Before and after using Coolest brunette to counteract strong copper shades

Blue is the opposite of orange

If your brunette client’s hair is too copper or orange you’ll need to counteract those tones using blue. The Coolest Brunette range can counteract orange/copper tones. However, if the hair is too blue or your ash toner has made your Bronde or Brunette too flat, you can counteract these tones with orange by using Just Peachy Shampoo.

Green is the opposite of red

If your client has too much red or warmth in their brunette hair you can counteract with green by using Coolest Brunette Shampoo. If your client has green hair, the opposite colour is red. Flaming Copper or Ultra Rose Shampoos would be used to counteract these green tones. If your brunette client is experiencing flat, drab or murky tones, it could be due to build-up which can throw green. When this happens I would use Deep Cleansing Shampoo to clarify and remove this build-up and then mix a mocktail of Flaming Copper with Coolest Brunette Shampoo.

FINAL WORD

MUVO toning products are an incredible extension of your hair colour services in the salon. They can support major and minor colour transformations & extend the longevity of your professional hair colour services. MUVO supports colour-treated hair with multiple options for creative, corrective and transformative colours which are adaptable to your salon’s budget and style.

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